Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
